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I sat down with the CEO of Alien Skin, Finley Lee, to try this out He's in the U.S.A. and I'm in Ireland.
#Alienskin exposure x3 layering tiffs download#
If a colleague also has Exposure X3 on a different computer you can edit a file and the photo will change on your colleague's end as you’re making adjustments. The time it takes for the adjustments to take place is the time it takes for the data to upload to Dropbox and download to the other computer.
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It must also be noted that in this comparison mode, you can hover over any preset in order to view it on all the selected photos at the same time.Īnother handy feature is the ability to upload your files to Dropbox. You can also link them, zoom into 100 percent, and they will all pan to the same area. Culling is made quicker, however, with the option to compare up to four photos at the same time. The 1:1 previews render quickly, however, panning can be a little slow sometimes. Also, from my experience, Exposure X3’s files only end up being around 4 KB each. As long as your folders aren’t enormous, browsing photos is a very painless experience. This makes life much easier because if you’ve experienced the dreaded “the file cannot be located” in Lightroom, then you’ll understand how frustrating it can be to re-link your photos to your catalogs. Also, because this is a non-destructive raw editor, all the editing you do is stored in a sidecar file, which is stored in a separate folder within the folder you’re working in. There’s no messing about with catalogs, or any importing needed. To access the folder or file you want to work on, you just need to search through your Finder or Explorer on the left-hand panel, click on it, and boom, there it is either the file shows up in grid view or you just select the photo you want. The FeelĪs stated above, from a distance it looks like any other raw processor. On closer inspection, you’ll notice a distinct lack of catalogs. If memory serves Life or Look even featured it as part of a article on IGY at the South Pole.What the program looks like in grid view, with both panels extended. This turned out to be caused by the automatic rewind in their Nikon's zipping the film back into the cassette so fast that it generated static shocks from the plastic film base passing through the 35mm canister's light blocking flocking (could not resist that) so quickly.Lots of that, "lightning"strikes showed up in motion footage post WW2 in cold dry climes. These shocks killed three brand new Pentax ME's just from being picked up from the display cabinet before we figured out what was going on on one occasion (you learned to hold a key between your forefingers), just touching the cash register triggered it to ring up a $100,000 sale and open the drawer.īut the weirdest thing (and one I'll take some credit for solving) was when a couple of photographers that I knew who were shooting for the Edmonton Journal kept encountering 'lightning strikes' across their negatives. Very low humidity and lots of nylon carpet in the store, so static shocks were frequent. Noting your location, here's an aside that may amuse: in the late 70's, I was working in a photographic retail store in Edmonton Centre. And of course photographers would always have a second body loaded and ready, when shooting at that rate. That's a work flow I adopted, painfully, YMMV of course. Happy again? You did work on copies, not originals, didn't you? Flatten, sharpen for print or view, save as Tiff, save as JPEG.
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The white canvas may show thru to enhance the stars but I've found it useful at the perspective correction above. Now if you're happy you can merge to processed foreground + sky and correct the size and perspective. Select the elements you like, own tool or lasso, etc. DO NOT correct size or perspectives yet! Switch to Sky, color, brightness, etc. Now hide the sky and work on Forgound - color, brightness, etc. Now you got bottom to top, white canvas, foreground (hide this), Sky (hide also), foreground 2, Sky 2. Then I'd sandwich the 2 with the sky over the foreground, _dupe_ both layers, add another (layer 5) foreground, fill bottom layer with white _only_, this will layer is handy for cropping. Copy 1 I'd adust in Raw for the foreground exposure (that washes out the sky), copy 2 I'd adjust in Raw to bring out the stars. I'd import into PS thru Bridge 2 copies of the same image.
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Sorry to tell you but I'm betting you have to shoot Raw files plus process the sky as an extra step to bring out stars. Should I just use Fine+Raw or Normal+Raw instead? Tried adjusting the highlights and shadows but the stars still won't showI shoot RAW + Jpegs but only cause wifie hates to process Raw files. How can I avoid this from happening again? The settings for my picture is in either Fine or Normal but definitely not Raw.